When an Ounce of Prevention Really Is Worth (Far More Than!) a Pound of Cure

Word to the wise – as independent and aloof as you might think we cats are, we really can have our fair share of issues and stressors that cause us to react/act in ways that you might find less than desirable. Sadly, as much as we felines think we are and as much as you’d like us to be, we’re not purr-fect.

The “tomcat tomfoolery” that humans seem to find so offensive can basically be broken down into two main groups – destructive behavior and aggressive behavior. It really is no laughing matter for my misbehaving feline friends though as the top five behavioral reasons cited by the NCPPSP (the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy) related to cats being relinquished to animal shelters really do fall into those two cat-egories and include:

1. Soiling the house
2. Problems arising between a new pet and other pets
3. Being aggressive toward people
4. Being destructive inside
5. Being aggressive toward animals

As important as that information is, it really doesn’t take a genius or numerous scientific studies to figure out that the majority of our destructive behaviors are usually related to not using the litter box properly (which can also include what humans so fondly refer to as “spraying”) and scratching your furniture (OK
- sometimes it surpasses mere scratching and enters the realm of “shredding”). And no – our aggression issues aren’t merely limited to hostile encounters with other furry members of our family. Sometimes we do also lash out at the humans we own.

What then can you do to prevent such cat-ty behavioral problems from ever occurring? It’s really quite simple, but let’s break it down by issue, shall we?

Preventing Litter Box and Spraying Problems

• Provide a litter box for every cat in your household, plus at least one additional box for those “just in case” moments.
• Clean each litter box often – at least once per day. Admit it – you humans don’t like using a messy toilet any more than cats do!
• Don’t put litter boxes near your cat’s eating area or in noisy, high-activity areas.
• Put litter boxes where they give your cat some privacy, but where they can see what’s going on around them and where they have an “escape route.”
• If your cats have access to multiple floors in your home, be certain you have litter boxes on each of those levels. Youngsters, seniors, and sick kitties will really appreciate this.
• Be aware that cats might have different preferences for a certain style of litter box – one with a lid and/or door, one without a lid, a tall one, a wide one, one that automatically cleans itself, etc. What works for one of your cats might actually frighten another.
• Be aware that cats might also have different litter preferences – clumping, non-clumping, scented, unscented, pellets, shredded paper, etc. This can often be a key factor for cats that are declawed (more on that sensitive subject at a later date).
• If you switch the type of litter you’re using, do so very slowly or you might find a “present” where you really don’t want one.
• Please don’t use harsh-smelling chemicals to clean the litter boxes. That smell might actually seem worse to us than a dirty litter box.
• Clean and treat “accident” areas immediately – use odor-neutralizing products like an enzyme-based cleaner and avoid using ammonia-based products which can actually mimic urine odors.
• If your cat suddenly begins to refuse to use a litter box, it’s a good idea to determine if there are any underlying medical issues causing the problem.
• When it comes to urine “spraying” problems, prevention is definitely the best approach to take and the best preventative measure is to neuter and spay your cats. Neutering a male cat before it’s six-months-old will greatly reduce its urge to spray. And yes – not only can female cats spray, but unspayed cats in heat can often be a “trigger” for male cats to begin spraying.
• If you think your cat is spraying due to being stressed out by other cats they see wandering outside your home, do whatever is necessary to block their view of such “territory-invading” cats.
• Pheromone-based products can be very helpful in preventing litter box problems, as well as spraying problems. By mimicking naturally-occurring kitty compounds, they can help reduce stress levels and increase a greater sense of calmness amongst your cat “clowder.”

Preventing Destructive Scratching Problems

• Provide “acceptable” alternative scratching areas to your cat(s). Whether a sturdy vertical post covered with sisal rope or a horizontal piece of corrugated cardboard (and yes – some cats might actually have a “directional” preference), locate “scratchable” items near your cat(s) resting area or somewhere they feel safe to use them.
• To encourage them to use the preferred scratching surface, rub your cat(s) paws on it. Just be prepared for them to look at you like you’re an idiot!
• Spray the preferred scratching area(s) with catnip spray to also encourage your cat(s) to use them. This will likely earn you some “brownie points” no matter what else happens!
• Use double-sided sticky tape, aluminum foil, and/or “bitter” sprays to protect “off-limit” scratching areas.
• Trim your cat’s nails often, whether you do it yourself or take them to a groomer/vet to have it done.
• Consider “capping” your cat’s nails with one of the various products on the market that can be glued on to prevent destructive clawing. Be aware that such products are only temporary and will need to be re-applied.
• Declawing (…..s-h-u-d-d-e-r…..) should only be considered as a last resort (if at all).

Preventing Aggression Towards Other Animals

• Introduce your cat to new animals slowly, regardless of who the newcomer is. Keep them in separate areas where they can become acquainted with each others smell, either through a door or with the use of a piece of material that the other animal has laid on or that you have wiped over their coat. Introduce them visually to each other by keeping the “newbie” crated while the others can freely roam around. Only allow supervised face-to-face visits with one another when any hissing, growling, etc. behavior has ceased. Go slowly though!
• If aggression arises between your cat and an animal that it’s been happily co-habiting with, a trip to the vet is warranted to verify that an illness isn’t the underlying trigger.
• Again, pheromone-based products can help create and maintain a happy-cat sense of camaraderie.

Preventing Aggression Towards People

• If your kitty starts tussling a little too hard during your play sessions together, stop playing with them immediately! An audible “Ouch!” can also go a long way towards helping them figure out what isn’t acceptable. Please – no human swatting allowed though! That might just provoke a bigger cat fight.
• Provide your cat(s) with plenty of toys to prevent them from getting bored and inadvertently doing something like “attacking” your feet as you tap them while working on the computer. Truth be told though, tapping toes can actually be hard to resist for the best of cats!
• If you don’t like us giving you “love bites,” then please don’t tease us (like “playfully” pulling our tail or tickling our ear) and then get upset if we strike back inappropriately.
• I simply can’t say this loud enough, but purr-ty please supervise young children around us! They might get a little too rough with us and the only way we might be able to defend ourselves will be in an aggressive manner. Please don’t set us (or yourselves) up for failure like that.
• Again, if your once-happy cat suddenly begins acting aggressively towards you or other people, consider a medical exam to ensure that it’s not a physical problem causing them to lash out.

Purr-haps this is a somewhat sideline general note, but I think it’s worth mentioning. Some people like to use the element of surprise to discourage cats from exhibiting certain behaviors. They rely on squirt guns or soda cans filled with small (but noisy when shaken!) stones to distract and scare us away. While this might work for some cats, you can also frighten the be-jeepers out of other cats and create even bigger problems (or simply “relocate” where the problem is happening). Be consistent with this approach and/or be careful.

While I can’t purr-sonally guarantee that you won’t encounter any behavioral problems with your cat, I do know that your chances improve greatly if you have a prevention plan in place versus formulating a plan of attack only AFTER a problem raises its furry and often-frustrating head. Sometimes all that’s really needed to have a well-behaved cat is for you to play with us for a few minutes each day. Toss us a treat when we do things right (OK – we might not catch it or fetch it like a dog would, but we do still enjoy a tasty treat every once in a while). Put a birdfeeder outside a window we can lounge in front of and/or grow a pot of “cat grass” for us to “nom-nom” on. You get the idea. Simply give some “preventative” thought about how best to keep your cat(s) happy and stress-free and they’ll likely do their best to behave like your finest feline friend.

Ten Hot Tips To Keep Your Dog Happy and Healthy During The Winter Months

1. Like I said, it’s not rocket science (I have no idea what that means, but I hear people say it), so simply start by limiting the amount of time we’re exposed to the cold. Even if we’re use to taking a daily walk around the neighborhood, some days might just be too darn cold to go or at least not as far. My dogged determination to look tough almost makes it impossible for me to admit this, but dogs can also suffer from hypothermia and frostbite, just like human beings who are all bundled up but who exceed their own physical limits.
2. I know quite a few dogs that aren’t going to be thrilled I said this, but…..if we do go outside for a brief romp, some of us actually don’t mind a little extra “padding.” We might put up a fuss when you pull that coat or vest over our head or when you try to strap some boots onto our feet, but given time to adjust to them, they really can add to our outdoor comfort level. Please just don’t make a big guy like me wear a frilly pink coat that says “Diva” on it to the dog park! You might also want to make sure that such items are waterproof (for our benefit), as well as washable (for your benefit).
3. The outside winter world has a number of chemical-related risks for dogs that you might forget about or not be aware of. Some of the most common ones we encounter are the products you humans use to melt the ice on your walking surfaces – things like rock salt. While they help people keep standing safely on those two long legs you have, they can actually burn our feet and, if we happen to lick it off, it can cause some serious internal upset and damage. There are now quite a few “pet friendly” ice-melting products on the market, so we ask you nicely to please consider using them instead. The other product we’re at risk of encountering more often in the winter is antifreeze. Supposedly sweet-tasting (I’ve never tried it and don’t plan on it either), we sometimes can’t help ourselves from licking up a puddle of it. It’s super toxic stuff, so it’s critical that you immediately wipe up any spills/leaks of it and that you keep containers of it stored out of our reach and tightly sealed.
4. There are a number of other outside environmental dangers that you should be aware of during the wintertime. If we’re out and about walking with you, it’s probably best to have us on a leash (with some kind of ID) just in case we run off and get disoriented from any snow or ice that blankets our once-familiar surroundings. And speaking of ice – pay particular attention to us wandering off and potentially walking on waterways that are covered by (unbeknownst to us) too-thin-ice. I can guarantee you that swimming in a river is NOT something we dogs want to do when it’s freezing outside! Ice can also cause some extra spills for our older – and possibly already arthritic – dog friends, so be aware of what you’re asking them to walk on. That goes for you humans as well. Treat yourself to a nice pair of Yaktraxs (or something like them) to make sure we don’t pull you off your feet and then run off ourselves. Back to us dogs though – snowmobile trails might seem like a good place for us to roam during our time outside, but we run the risk of being hit on them, so perhaps it’s best if we stay off them. And last but not least, if you happen to take us for a ride in the car during the winter, that too can be risky if you leave us unattended for too long. If the car is turned off, we can get super chilly and if the car is left running, carbon monoxide can actually become a dangerous factor.
5. Once we head back indoors, the risks really aren’t over just yet. To be on the safe side, it would be a good idea to wipe us down thoroughly. Who knows, we might have ice stuck between our toes or chemicals saturating our feet. Plus, the drier we are, the quicker we’ll warm up.
6. Other indoor wintertime risks include human heating devices that we dogs might not be use to encountering. Whether it’s a fireplace, a wood stove, a space heater, or something else, we might get a little too close and not even know it’s a problem until it’s too late. We could hurt ourselves or potentially even cause a fire. Either keep us out of the area, keep heaters up high, and/or screen us from getting too close – whatever it takes to keep us all safe and warm.
7. Although not risk-related, some of us – especially older and/or ill dogs – might benefit from some extra wintertime indoor pampering. We’re talking about things like heated beds (or maybe just a really plush one near the heat) or perhaps a warm sweater. Nothing fancy – just a little boost to our comfort level.
8. While I’d like to think that all of my canine chums are living the indoor life of luxury like I am, I do know that there are many dogs who live part – if not all – of their lives outdoors. If your dog is one of them, please, please, PLEASE read these last three tips that are related to outdoor dogs and do your best to make their life a little more tolerable during the winter and – potentially – a lot more comfortable. While many states actually have laws that regulate the “minimum requirements” that owners must provide their outside dogs, I hope you’ll go above and beyond those levels. For starters – shelter is the most critical, regardless if your dog is chained, penned, or running loose 24/7/365 or just for a few hours while you’re at work or running errands. While a porch overhang might suffice, providing a well-insulated, slightly-elevated, and properly-sized doghouse would be much better.   (Check out this insulated dog house and it comes in 3 sizes)Bigger isn’t necessarily better though as it’s harder to heat and more heat can be lost. Just make sure that your dog can stand, turn, and lay down comfortably inside the doghouse and provide them with some kind of bedding, whether straw or a clean blanket every day. Protection from the wind is also critical, especially with something along the lines of a door “flap” or a windbreaker tarp. Heat lamps and other electrical devices in a doghouse or kennel can actually be a danger, so be careful and consult a professional electrician if need be.
9. Shelter obviously isn’t the only need an outdoor dog has during the winter. Fresh (and unfrozen) water is also extremely important. Simply eating snow will not keep your dog hydrated and warm. If your dog isn’t a chewer, think about investing in a heated bowl. They really are worth it and they don’t cost a fortune. Depending on your dog and the outdoor conditions they face, they might also need up to 30% more calories to sustain themselves. Feed them as much high quality food as necessary to help them not only survive the winter, but to maybe even thrive.
10. Many people forget about how important grooming can be for an outdoor dog. The reality is that matted and tangled fur makes it harder for a dog to retain heat, as well as to protect itself from cold winds, blowing snow, etc. Brush them often and take some time to also trim excess fur from their feet to prevent ice and snow from “balling” up on them.

The bottom line is, if we start shaking, it’s definitely time to get us someplace warm. Hypothermia can kill us, just as quickly as it can kill you. As tough as we are – fur coats and all – we also have limits, so please bring your hardiest cold-weather dog(s) inside on those days when the winds howl louder than we ever could. There’s truly nothing better in ANY dog’s world than snuggling with our people on a chilly winter’s day.

While the members of the kitty kingdom like to think we’re better than dogs on every level known to humankind, we’re not very happy about the unenviable distinction that the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America has bestowed upon us that reports how cats cause allergy problems for people on a level that’s nearly double the rates associated with canine-related allergies. Based on research conducted by NCPPSP, the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, allergies are also listed as a main reason why cats are surrendered to animal shelters on a level that’s more than four times greater than why dogs are relinquished (~18% compared to only ~4%). Although many shelter-bound, allergy-causing cats are “given up” fairly soon after being added to the family (~13% within one month), time doesn’t necessarily ease the pain as ~15% have lived with their human companions for more than five years before they arrive at a shelter due to allergy-related reasons.

Tips for Coping with Cat-Induced Allergies

Just what is it that causes people to be allergic to cats? Purr-sonally, we felines think that some of you are just faking it and trying to take away from the attention that should instead be paid to us and not to your “cat-choos,” runny noses, and red eyes. However, we do acknowledge that there are those of you who do experience a not-so-pleasant physical reaction to us.

Purr-haps the biggest misunderstanding that people have though, is that such problems are due to their encounters with our fur. The reality of the situation is that your allergies to us are actually brought on by a number of proteins that are found in our saliva, urine, and dried flakes of microscopic skin that humans like to refer to as “dander” (which is NOT the same thing as dandruff). You should also know that dander is not only capable of being airborne, but it’s also considered to be pretty “sticky” stuff. That means you can encounter dander in places where cats might not even have been, but where it has been brought in simply by being attached to other people or objects that were near cats.

By taking what I like to refer to as a “three-pawed” approach, it really is quite possible to manage the allergies someone might have to cats. It basically involves treating one’s self, one’s home, and any cats in one’s home (or that they might encounter elsewhere). Let’s break it down by cat-egory.

Treating Yourself

1. If you haven’t already done so, medically verify that your allergies truly are cat-related. Please don’t just assume that they are. You might just be pleasantly (or purr-haps not-so-pleasantly) surprised at the results of any allergy testing you have done.
2. If you are indeed allergic to cats, your doctor might recommend treatment options that include the use of medications (over-the-counter as well as prescription ones) including various antihistamines (e.g., Benadryl), decongestants (e.g., Sudafed), and steroids (e.g., Flonase). It might take a while to figure out what’s best for you, so be sure to work closely with your doctor during the “trial-and-error” process.
3. Your doctor might also suggest what’s known as “immunotherapy” or what humans simply prefer to call “allergy shots.” Although it doesn’t work for everyone, this somewhat lengthy approach (we’re talking “years” here, not months) is often quite effective as it attempts to make a person more resistant/immune to the things they’re allergic to, instead of simply masking/suppressing their symptoms (much like many of the above mentioned medications do).
4. Even if you think your cat allergies are under control or “no big deal,” don’t go crazy petting and “man-handling” your cats (or other cats you encounter). Better safe than sorry, so love us from afar. We’ll understand. And if you just can’t resist our charm and beauty, be sure to wash your hands quickly – and thoroughly – after you do touch us.
5. This might sound silly, but – if you simply find us irresistible, take the time to change into some clothes that you’ve specifically set aside to wear only when you’re “up close and personal” with us. Choose items that can be easily washed and that don’t have lots of “nooks and crannies” for our dander to get stuck in. Wash those clothes often and by themselves. You’ll be glad you did.
6. Some people swear that simply being patient is all that’s needed to overcome allergies to cats. While we can’t guarantee that things will get better for you with the passage of time, it can happen if your body’s immunity gets stronger as you continue to be exposed to the allergens that affect you.
7. While not yet available, there is a vaccine in the works specifically for people who are allergic to cats. Safety and effectiveness trials are still underway, but the hope is that it will be on the market by 2014. We’d like to think that its release will purr-haps make this entire discussion a mute point. Paws crossed that it does.

Treating Your Home

1. As much as you might not want to hear this – clean often and clean everything, from wiping down the walls to washing your bedding in hot (140+ degree) water.
2. While it would be best if someone else could do the cleaning for you (we admit it – we like having human “servants” too), if you have to do it, wear gloves and purr-haps even a mask.
3. “De-fabric” your life as much as possible so there are fewer places for our “sticky” dander to cling to. Consider getting rid of carpets, curtains, and upholstered furniture altogether. Otherwise, use such things as throw rugs and slipcovers that can be washed and/or that have “low pile” so they can be vacuumed more thoroughly. (These are great: Alexa Corner Cat Tree & Madison Cat Tree)
4. When you dust, use an “electrostatic” cloth (think along the lines of a Swiffer), but be careful how you wash them if they’re re-usable. Some cleaning products, like “anti-static” dryer sheets, will make electrostatic cloths useless at “trapping” allergens.
5. When you vacuum (scary beast that such a machine is), use one with a HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filter or an “electrostatic” disposable bag. An occasional steam-cleaning is also a good idea.
6. HEPA filters aren’t just limited to your vacuum cleaner. Consider using them in your central air and/or heating systems (if possible) and/or use individual filters on each vent. Small HEPA air purifiers can also be placed in rooms that your cat(s) use most often.
7. When it comes to litter box cleaning, think like a cat and use your allergies to your benefit by asking someone else to do it for you. Sneaky, huh? Seriously though, whoever does it, clean it often and consider using a clumping type of litter or at least one that’s “low dust” and/or perfume-free. (Two great options: Purr Simple All-Natural Kwik Klump Cat Litter & Feline Fresh Natural Pine Cat Litter ) Introduce your cat(s) to new types of litter slowly though – otherwise you might have more than allergies to deal with (don’t say we didn’t warn you).
8. Anti-allergen room sprays also exist, so consider using them on a routine basis. Just be prepared for us to potentially go into hiding once you start spraying the stuff.

Treating Your Cat(s)

1. It pains me to say this, but studies have shown that spaying and neutering your cat can actually cause a decrease in your allergies. Supposedly, “fixed” cats produce fewer allergens than un-altered ones. Female cats have also been shown to create less allergens than male cats – something to keep in mind if you’re actually thinking of adopting a cat.
2. There’s some debate among human beings about certain breeds of cats being “hypo-allergenic,” which would make them less likely to cause allergic reactions. We’ll let you do your own homework and decide for yourself if one type of cat might be better for your specific needs and/or desires. That’s simply a cat fight we’d rather avoid.
3. Again – as much as I hate to encourage such behavior, brushing and bathing your cat(s) can also potentially help reduce the level of allergens they’re distributing around the house. Even a simple daily “wipe down” with a wet washcloth can make quite a difference. Various “wipes” and “coat sprays” also exist that can help control allergen levels. If someone else can’t do this for you, consider wearing gloves and/or a mask whenever you groom your cat.
4. Feed your cat(s) high quality food to ensure that their coat condition is in tip-top shape and to reduce shedding. And no – I’m not ashamed to admit that’s my favorite tip.
5. As much as I might not like to admit this, there are undeniable benefits to confining your cat(s) to certain areas of your home to minimize your potential exposure to their allergen “trails.” I think I can speak for ALL cats when I say that – as much as we might not like such living conditions – this is a MUCH better option for us than being left to fend for ourselves outdoors 24/7/365 or, even worse, to be surrendered to the local animal shelter due to your uncontrolled allergies. At the very least, keep us out of your bedroom where you spend so much of your time (no offense intended, as we too are huge fans of sleeping).
6. Although somewhat out of your control, be prepared for guests to visit your home that might bring in some “tag-along” cat allergens. Have a plan in effect to clean up after they leave, if that’s possible. Along the same line, if you’re planning short visits to places that have cats, be prepared by doing such things as having your allergy medications on hand and/or changing your clothes as soon as possible. For longer visits – purr-haps to the home of cat-loving family or friends – don’t hesitate to ask your host/hostess to help you in managing your allergies during your stay.

Whatever methods you use to help control your cat-related allergies, we wish you the greatest levels of success. While we’d be lying if we didn’t admit to the pleasure we take in “mentally toying with you” – like shredding the toilet paper as if it was our own personal ticker tape purr-ade or occasionally barfing up a hairball in your slipper – we of the cat kingdom truly take no pleasure whatsoever in making our human servants physically ill. We simply hope that – should the day arrive when you’re told that you are indeed allergic to cats – you’ll give some of these tips a try before you decide that life with a cat is no longer possible. We like to think we’re worth the extra effort and we have a sneaking suspicion that most people reading this probably feel the same way.

I hope that you don’t take this the wrong way, but I have to confess that I’ve always been slightly confused by the reaction that many human beings seem to have to the concept of dog adoption. If you’re wondering how a handsome Husky like me has ever even encountered such a subject, trust me – talk of adoption really does come up quite often amongst the people I “meet and greet” at places like the doggy daycare center that I occasionally get to visit (I sure wish I could hang out there more often) or at the vet’s office (a place I’d really rather NEVER visit again). Think about it – who better is there for you humans to talk with about adding another dog to your family than with another pet person.

During those discussions, I’ve overheard the various reasons that people are concerned about bringing an adopted shelter or rescue dog into their home – and yes – I really do understand those concerns. Many of you wonder if such dogs have ended up in their current situation because they have something “wrong” with them, whether behavioral or physical. You might think there are simply too many “unknowns” about them for you to bring them into your home, only to have it then turn into a safety and/or financial problem for you. Some of you might also have your heart set on a certain breed of dog and think you’ll have better luck finding a “good” one by dealing with a breeder or pet store. For other people, the desire to save money and/or to help someone out is the driving force behind adopting a “free” dog from someone you know (or perhaps don’t know) and who has to “get rid of” their dog. Because of all of these concerns, I’m often left with the impression that human beings consider adoption to be a “last resort” to complete their family.

Let me try to put some of those concerns in perspective for you. I can obviously only speak from a canine perspective, so I hope that what I say doesn’t sound judgmental or disrespectful in any way. I simply think it’s important for humans to gain a better understanding of just how VERY critical it is to my furry friends and I that adoption from an animal shelter or a rescue group be given the same consideration – if not even more – than that given to the idea of buying a dog from a pet store or breeder. I hope that you’ll also begin to understand the potential benefits to you, should you “opt to adopt instead of shop.”

My own personal story actually involves being purchased by a family who met me at a pet store. It was what I later often heard them refer to as an “impulse buy that they regretted.” They really didn’t seem to give much thought to the fact that I could live for many years – who knows, maybe even 15 or more – and that the decision involving me was as important as it is for other life-changing events, like buying a car or a house. They just saw a cute puppy one day that they thought they could “rescue” from the confines of a pet store.

Little did they know that my life had actually begun at the home of someone who bred Siberian Huskies, as well as a large number of other dog breeds. Not all breeders have the best interest of their dogs or those who eventually buy them as their top priority though. Such was the case for the “backyard breeders/puppy mill” that first sold me to the pet store. It truly was all about the money for them. We dogs had very little socialization with humans (in fact, we were kept in outside pens 24/7), we received minimal health care, and had few “boundaries” to prevent canine family members from inbreeding. Life at the pet store wasn’t much better though as it simply involved “living under the lights” and receiving just enough care to survive on until someone came along and bought us.

The people that bought me assumed (oh, the trouble that can lead to) that paying a “small fortune” for me would ensure they had a puppy that would require minimal training or supervision. Such was not to be the case. It wasn’t that I was an unruly pup – I was simply a normal one that needed enough attention to ensure that hours didn’t pass in between my “potty breaks” (thus leading to very unpopular “accidents”) or that I didn’t get bored and chew someone’s sock that had been left on the floor (yet another thing I eventually learned was a big “no-no”).

After spending only several months with this family, they decided that they wanted to “cut their losses,” so off to the shelter I went. They simply told the shelter volunteers that – the reason they were “surrendering” me – was that they just didn’t have enough time to spend with me. Why they themselves didn’t try to find me a new home, I’ll never know.

Based on research by NCPPSP, the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, I’ve since come to learn that the top five reasons people provide shelters with as to why they have to “give up” their dog is: they’re moving, their landlord won’t allow them to have a pet, they have too many animals, it’s too costly, and/or they’re having other personal problems. Wouldn’t you agree, that’s not exactly the physical or behavioral issues that we discussed earlier about potential adopters having concerns about?

I like to think of myself as a pretty tough (but loving) doggy-dude, but I can’t even begin to describe how very afraid I was during the days I spent at the shelter. The people there treated me wonderfully, but I could literally smell the fear and confusion that we furry “residents” were feeling about why we were here and about what was going to happen to us. Every night, after the humans had gone home and the lights had been turned out, we introduced ourselves to one another and swapped stories between our kennels. Every night, there were new arrivals, but there were also missing faces and we just knew that wasn’t always a good thing.

The NCPPSP estimates that 25% of the dogs that end up at a shelter are “purebreds” and, I can tell you from personal experience, that’s pretty darn close to what I saw. I think people would be GREATLY surprised to discover they can find Golden Retrievers, Chihuahuas, and just about every other dog breed at their local animal shelter. Again, many of them being dogs that might have started life at a breeders or a pet store, just like me.

However, adopting a purebred dog from an animal shelter (or rescue group) almost always costs only a small fraction of what it would compared to if they were purchased from a pet store or breeder, especially when you consider that shelter/rescue dogs are usually already spayed or neutered, vaccinated, wormed, and “de-flead,” as well as occasionally microchipped. Some shelters and rescue groups also provide a “coupon” for a free veterinary exam within a certain time period after being adopted, along with a “trial subscription” of health insurance. Talk about a bargain!

And don’t forget, this would also be true for a mixed breed dog – dogs which numerous scientific studies have actually concluded have fewer overall health and behavioral problems due to their bigger and more “well–rounded” gene pool. That might just be one of the best reasons I know of to adopt what you humans beings so often refer to as a mere “mutt!”

During my shelter stay, I was also amazed to hear that most (~30%) of my caged canine compadres weren’t strays that had been brought in by people who didn’t know anything about them, but instead were dogs that had been “acquired” from friends of their owner, another finding that’s consistent with NCPPSP’s various studies. So much for humans helping out a friend and/or for saving some money when adopting a “free” dog. For whatever reason(s), that option just doesn’t seem to have a very high success rate of a happy ending. Perhaps people are simply too embarrassed to return the dog to the person they got him/her from, thus they simply rely on a shelter to find them a new home?

My story took a happy turn one day when a kind lady from a nearby Husky rescue group happened to see me as she was walking through the shelter. I then found myself living at what I heard people refer to as a “foster home.” Here, the people paid more attention to me in one day than I was use to receiving in my other home over the course of an entire week! They truly took the time to train me to be well-mannered, house-broken, and all of those other wonderful qualities that people look for in their canine companions. For the first time, I was happy, healthy, and made to feel like a well-loved member of a family.

It wasn’t long before other people came to visit me at my foster home. I heard those people talk about wanting to “adopt” me and that’s when the concept of adoption started to make sense to me. I began to realize that finding me a fantastic “furrever” home was both the animal shelter and rescue group’s ultimate goal, not merely making a profit off me. I also began to understand that there really were people who wanted a special dog who were willing to take their time in finding one, even if it meant spending some time (potentially sad as it might be) looking at all of the needy furry faces at the animal shelter and/or in filling out shelter/rescue group applications, providing references, permitting home visits, etc. They did this – not only to increase their chances of successfully finding a dog that was a good match for their lifestyle and desires – but to ensure that the dog they adopted would be happy as well.

That was the moment I fell in love with the idea of “opt to adopt instead of shop.” And yes – I’m so happy to report that the happy ending to my “tail” is that I was indeed eventually adopted into an amazing human home.

Again – please don’t get me wrong. There are good breeders out there, just as there are good pet stores. The bottom line though is that many dogs that end up at the shelter or in a rescue group originally came from a breeder or pet store. Few people seem to realize (or want to hear) that – of the estimated 5-7 million (yes – million!) dogs and cats that end up at shelters every year – 3-4 million of them never leave there alive. Their untimely deaths are usually due to a lack of space and too many other animals needing to be given the same chance at adoption. Why then would people want to buy from breeders and pet stores? It only seems to encourage them to continue to contribute to the massive pet overpopulation problem. It just doesn’t make any sense – at least to me it doesn’t.

I hope that what I’ve written has encouraged you to seriously consider adopting one of my furry friends from an animal shelter or rescue group the next time you’re thinking of expanding your family. In case you’re not yet familiar with it, a great place to begin your adoption search is at Petfinder. You not only can search their extensive database of dogs that are available at shelters and rescue groups across the United States and several other countries, but you can narrow your search based on such characteristics as breed, gender, age, size, and location, as well as other traits like whether they’re housetrained, can be with other dogs, etc. Talk about having options! I think you’ll be amazed at how many adoptable shelter and rescue dogs are out there that “fit the bill” for what you have your heart set on.

However you decide to begin your dog adoption quest, I hope you’ve come to realize that it literally can be a life-saving event for the dog you adopt, as well as a life-enhancing one for you and your family. The dog you adopt will likely love you more than you ever thought was possible and you yourself will probably never cease to be amazed at what a wonderful “recycled” dog you found. And don’t forget, by opening your heart and home to an adopted dog, you will have potentially helped save the life of another dog that can now occupy the shelter kennel or foster home that your adopted dog came from. That’s what I call a “win-win-WIN” situation and it really just doesn’t get much better than that.

The pros and cons of dealing with different dog sources.

With so many dogs available for adoption or sale, you wouldn’t think we’d need to write an article about such a topic. Think of this as more of a pros and cons tip sheet; a listing of things that you should consider in relation to the various sources that you might contact while on the search for the perfect pet dog.

Animal Shelters

With so many wonderful canines in dire need of a home, is there a better place to look than here? While this is a popular starting point for many people who are hoping to bring a dog into their world, sadly, not enough dogs ever walk back out the shelter door that they first came through. Don’t make the common mistake of discounting an animal shelter as a potential source for obtaining a purebred dog; according to the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), approximately 25% to 30% of a shelter’s dogs are purebreds.

While the historical records of these dogs are not always known, almost all of them receive proper medical attention prior to being released to a new owner. Be aware that it’s a common shelter requirement that such dogs eventually be spayed or neutered, if they haven’t already been, within a certain period after they leave the facilities.

Due to the interaction of these dogs with employees, volunteers, and veterinarians who provide services to the shelter, such people can often provide you with valuable input about the dog’s personality and individual needs. This will greatly increase your chances at successfully finding a dog that will best fit your lifestyle and personal needs.

Dog Breed Rescue Groups

There are a large number of specific dog breed rescue organizations. These dogs are taken in by such groups for a variety of reasons. Some come from homes where their owners can no longer care for them, whether due to changes in the owner’s health, financial status, or potential relocation. Others are neglect and/or abuse cases.

The individuals who temporarily take them into custody lovingly care for these dogs. As the welfare of the dog is of the utmost importance, potential new owners are often rigorously “interviewed” to determine whether they’re suitable dog parents. Even when a dog is released to a new owner, there can be a trial period where the dog is visited in his or her new home numerous times before the adoption is finalized.

As is the case with animal shelters, historical records and registration papers are not always available for each of these dogs but what information is known is willingly shared. Depending on the organization, dogs might receive medical treatment beyond that which was required to attend to any of their initial needs.

Dog Breeders

There are generally two types of dog breeders, those who breed for the advancement of the breed and those that breed dogs to make an income. While one has the welfare of all of their dogs in the forefront of their efforts, the other has the status of their bank account as their driving force. If you have your heart set on owning a happy and healthy pedigree dog, whether for breeding, show, or companion purposes, deal only with the former. Run from the latter as quickly as you can, even if they offer you a “good deal” on a dog.

A good dog breeder will have thorough records for each of their animals. They will also likely have obtained the highest level of medical care possible for their dogs. If the breeding facilities and the health and demeanor of the dogs, as well as the personality of the actual breeder, all pass your inspection, such information and care is often worth the purchase price of the dog.

It’s still a good idea to have a pre-purchase examination done by a veterinarian prior to finalizing your purchase. Many breeders have a return policy if things don’t work out in your new home, but be sure to get the details in writing.

Individual Ads

Heaven knows, there is always a multitude of listings for free or cheap dogs looking for a good home. When pursuing such an ad, you could be dealing with a person who’s selling puppies from an unexpected litter or who’s giving away an adult dog that showed up on their doorstep as a stray.

Usually the person is well intentioned. They truly want to find a loving home for the pets that have in one way or another entered their world. They might not know every detail about the dog but they’ll usually provide you with whatever information that they do have. Once again, a pre-purchase exam would be a worthwhile investment. If the current owner has a problem with that request, simply look elsewhere. It’s not worth the risk.

Pet Stores

You’ve heard the warnings before. While it’s true that many of these dogs come from less-than-reputable breeders (perhaps “dealers” would be a better descriptive word), we still have faith that there are at least a few good pet stores out there. Finding them however could be like finding a needle in a haystack or a two-week old puppy in a one-hundred acre cornfield.

The records that you obtain about these dogs might be lacking or worse yet, inaccurate. Medical treatment will probably be the minimum amount required by state law. Socialization skills will be dependent on how much these dogs are actually handled and allowed to interact together. Many of them might have been taken away from their mother at too early of an age, which could lead to a number of potential problems.

If you choose to purchase your pup from a pet store, all we can say is buyer beware. Actually though, that would be the same recommendation that we’d give for any dog source that you deal with. Proceed cautiously and be thorough with evaluating any dogs that you’re interested in purchasing from a pet store. A pre-purchase examination is an absolute necessity for any of these dogs.

Regardless of where your search takes you for your new dog, take your time and be thorough with your review of any potential candidates. Ask lots of questions and return to visit the dog as often as necessary to make the best choice. The perfect dog for you is out there – keep looking until you find him or her. It happens all of the time.

Seeing a box of adorable puppies available free at the local farmer’s market can cause almost anyone to lose touch with reality. Such people might suddenly find themselves at home with a new bundle of furry joy but absolutely no supplies on hand to properly take care of their new companion. Whether dog ownership comes to you via a chance encounter or after a thorough investigation into the pros and cons of owning a dog, there are a number of expenses that will now be a part of your finances.

Figures for Fido Finances

Some of the more obvious expenses will include:

• Bedding
• Collar and leash
• Dishes
• Food
• Potential purchase price
• Toys

The costs that you might forget to consider, whether in the heat of making an impulsive decision or simply from lack of thinking ahead, could include:

• Boarding fees
• Crate
• Dental cleanings
• Doggy day care
• Doghouse
• Emergencies
• Fecal tests
• Flea and tick control products
• Grooming fees or supplies
• Heartworm tests and medications
• Identification source (collar tag, tattoo, microchip)
• Licensing
• Obedience classes
• Outdoor fencing system
• Outdoor kennel facilities
• Outdoor run
• Pedigree registration
• Pet insurance
• Pet-sitter fees
• Potential increase in home owner’s insurance (for certain “high-risk” breeds)
• Room gates
• Spay or neutering fees
• Treatment of chronic medical conditions
• Vaccines (rabies, distemper, parvovirus, kennel cough, etc)
• Veterinarian examinations (including a pre-purchase exam if you don’t already own the dog)

Approach dog ownership as you would any investment. Be prepared for the initial upfront costs and save a few dollars for those unforeseen emergencies and needs. Your dog deserves only the best of care. With a little bit of planning and budgeting, even after an unplanned arrival of a new canine buddy in your home, you can provide a high quality of life to your furry friend.

Regardless if you’ve decided to get a purebred dog or a loving “mutt,” you’ll want to make sure that the dog you’re interested in offering your heart and home to is as healthy as they are happy. To help you make such a decision, we’d like to recommend that you follow a few general guidelines in determining the overall health of any dog that you’re seriously interested in adopting or purchasing.

Tips for finding a physically fit Fido

If you’re in the market for a purebred dog, whether for breeding, showing, or companionship purposes, try to familiarize yourself with the breed’s specific body characteristics, as well as any medical ailments that such a breed might be prone to encounter. Have your veterinarian exam your candidates thoroughly to see how well they match up to the breed’s standards and to see if they’re already exhibiting symptoms of common illnesses or physical limitations of the breed.

Ask your vet for input pertaining to any additional medical procedures that he or she would recommend for any of the dogs that you bring in. You might want to request that the vet conduct a basis blood chemistry work-up, a fecal and urine analysis, and/or such things as having the hips of the dog x-rayed if their breed is susceptible to problems and they haven’t already been “certified.”

Always conduct your own thorough “hands-on” exam. Don’t be so wrapped up in the excitement of seeing the dog for the first time that you forget to really “listen, look, smell, and touch” to identify any potential problems. Make a mental note if there are any obvious signs that the dog is anything less than very healthy and follow-up with your veterinarian about your impressions or concerns.

Ask the current owner of the dog for all pertinent medical information that they have on the dog, as well as any of its relatives. If there’s a litter of pups that you’re looking at, spend some time examining the overall health of each dog. Perhaps one will exhibit symptoms of the start of an illness that the other dogs in the litter will now be susceptible.

Don’t disregard an otherwise perfect dog if they simply have an easily treatable medical problem. Consider adopting a dog that has special medical needs only if you can truly give him or her proper treatment and attention that they need. However, you should know that some of these dogs make the best pets as they truly bond with owners who willingly and knowingly open their doors to a dog in need of constant medical care.

The bottom line is to determine what your minimum medical requirements are for selecting a healthy dog before you even begin the selection process. That will aid in ensuring your final choice is a good fit for both you and your new canine companion and that both of you will have a long and healthy life together.

Ideas on how you can have an indoor/outdoor cat, without them being unnecessarily exposed to common outside risks.

I’m fortunate that I own a pair of human beings who understand my desire to be a part of the outside world, but who also realize that I need to be protected when I do venture out into the wild unknown. When I first came into their world, they knew that a cat that gets to spend time outside usually gets more exercise and is also likely to be a lot less stressed. However, once they learned that the average life expectancy of indoor cats is around fifteen years while outdoor cats is only about five years (estimates vary), they wanted to make sure that my time spent outside was a life-enhancing experience, not a life-ending one.

Providing Your Cat with the Best of Both Worlds

How, you wonder – other than taking a walk on a leash or leaving a window open to allow some fresh air in the house – can curious cats safely explore the great outdoors? I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the number of options that exist.

Actually, leashes and windows are realistic possibilities. The thing to keep in mind with cats and leashes though is that – just like a dog – you’ll need to patiently teach a cat to feel comfortable while being on a leash. While my furry friends and I like to think of ourselves as being “cool cats,” we hate to admit that some of us might occasionally get a little freaked out on the end of such a horrible human invention. That being the case, you might want to rely on one of the many cat-sized harnesses that are now available, instead of simply using a collar and leash. The harnesses really are safer (and more comfortable) than a collar that could slip off and/or choke a “struggling” cat.

If your cat simply doesn’t want to be on a leash and/or if it’s not safe for them to be, due to “risks” you might encounter while walking (e.g., stray pets that could chase them, wild animals that could attack them, loud noises that could startle them), you could use a pet stroller instead. And yes – you read that correctly. Strollers aren’t just for humans anymore! Usually sturdy, roomy, and collapsible – just like those for children – animal strollers allow a cat (or multiple cats) to hang out in an enclosed space that often looks like a mesh-type pet carrier, all the while enjoying the outdoor sights, sounds, and other sensations while their person pushes them around the neighborhood. Talk about a win-win situation! Humans get exercise and kitties get mental stimulation. I “purr-sonally” really enjoy this mode of transportation.

As for windows, there are window “box-type inserts” you can buy – or build yourself, if you’re so inclined – that allow cats to sit just outside their home. Some have built-in “lockable kitty doors” that allow them to be used year-round (you won’t find me out there on a cold winter day though). Small-scale, but (usually) easy to install, this is a good option for someone who has limited outdoor space and/or who perhaps rents their home/apartment and can’t make significant alterations.

Another option for those who are limited by space and/or the ability to erect more permanent structures are cat “play areas” that can be quickly and easily set-up in a yard. Think along the lines of an “enclosed” human baby playpen and you’ll have a good idea of what I mean. Usually made of a heavy-duty mesh-type material and anchored with light-weight metal supports, such structures come in many sizes and shapes, including tunnels, tents, and towers.

On a larger and more customizable scale are outdoor kitty enclosures that are often referred to as “catios.” Such enclosures are available in pre-packaged kits, as well as in components that can be mixed-and-matched according to someone’s own needs and space requirements. Made from a variety of materials including metal, wood, plastic, and mesh, catios can actually be movable units on wheels, free-standing structures in the location of your choice (e.g., on your deck), or more permanent fixtures such as those that enclose a porch or that incorporate a piece of yard and that are directly accessible from a home via a window, kitty door, catwalk, etc. For the do-it-yourselfer, there are also cat enclosure plans that can be purchased to guide you through the construction process.

Whether a kit is used or a simple blueprint, catios of every design can be customized with such elements as reinforced and lockable doors, adjustable shelves, weather-proof flooring, sturdy roofing, overhead “bridges” or “tunnels,” and buried perimeter fences (to prevent cats from digging their way out – and yes, that is possible). “Purr-sonal” touches include adding such things as a water feature (think fountain or small pond here, not simply an elevated water bowl, although that too is nice), a dirt patch, sand box, and real tree limbs for us “wanna-be mountain lions” to enjoy climbing. Some people also choose to make their cat enclosures big enough to accommodate their own outdoor recreational space where they can spend quality time with their feline friends. We don’t mind you doing that, as long as you play nice when you’re with us.

Last but not least, there are also fencing options for keeping cats safe outdoors. Such fences can be freestanding, as well as attached to existing fences. Many rely on the top of the structure being “angled” inwards (and sometimes “spring-loaded” – talk about a wild ride) to keep a cat from being able to scale the fence. If there are trees or “poles” (electrical, telephone, etc.) in the yard that cats could use to jump over the fence, tree guards designed specifically for cats can also be installed. While underground “invisible fence systems” do exist for cats (as they do for dogs), remember that such fences might successfully keep us confined, but they will NOT keep OUT certain dangers such as roaming dogs, wild animals, etc.

If you’re ready to “purr-sue” any of the ideas that I’ve mentioned above, a simple Google search will get you well on your way to creating and providing a safe outdoor environment for your cat(s). Regardless of what outside enhancements you make, it would be a good idea to ensure that each cat has some form of identification on them, whether a breakaway collar with an ID tag, a microchip, or tattoo, just in case they do manage to get loose. Along the same line, they should be properly vaccinated and spayed or neutered prior to being allowed outside. It’s also best to introduce them to their new environment slowly and with supervision. Better safe than sorry, right? Such is the case for any cat – indoors, outdoors, or those enjoying the best of both worlds.

OK – we get it. Dogs really do understand that many human beings like chocolate almost as much as they like their canine companions. Combining those two loves also seems like a favorite bipedal pastime as I’ve truly lost count of how many furry pals I’ve met at the local doggy park that are named Hershey and Cocoa. Talk around the fire hydrant has it that you’ve even gone so far as to describe the coat color of some of my dearest friends as chocolate (although we dogs like to think of it as “liver”…..yum, yum!).

The Not-So-Delicious Dangers of Feeding Chocolate to Dogs

As much as my four-legged friends would prefer that I not tell you this – and, as much as I too would like to indulge in an occasional piece of luscious chocolate – there’s no sugar-coating the fact that chocolate in all of its heavenly forms can actually be toxic to dogs. And yes – I do mean toxic to the point of being deadly.

What kind of chocolate and how much, you wonder? Without getting too technical, it really depends on the amount of a caffeine-like, naturally-occurring compound that’s found in chocolate and that’s known as theobromine. If you’re wondering how I know all of this stuff, suffice it to say that – the one time I over-indulged in some chocolate that I found in my “hu-mom’s” purse that was on the coffee table – I got quite a bellyache and was begging for some reassuring head pats as she looked online for information about what to do for me. I learned a lot that day as I slobbered all over her iPad.

The bottom line is this. Dark chocolate and baking chocolate are more dangerous to dogs than milk chocolate or white chocolate. Don’t forget though – cocoa powder, chocolate syrup, and anything made of chocolate can actually be toxic to dogs. That even includes cocoa bark mulch that’s now used in landscaping (something that we pups might have free access to and can smell a mile away; OK – maybe not that far, but you know what I mean).

Surprisingly, it doesn’t take much chocolate to make us ill to the point of vomiting or having diarrhea. Being a stimulant, larger amounts can literally cause our blood pressure and heart rate to rise and to possibly lead to tremors, seizures, respiratory failure, and cardiac arrest.

While there is some level of variation, the general rule of thumb (although we obviously don’t have any) is that toxic levels can be reached if we eat 1 ounce of milk chocolate per 1 pound of our body weight, 1 ounce of semi-sweet chocolate per 3 pounds body weight, or 1 ounce of baking chocolate per 10 pounds body weight. If you’d like to play around with those numbers (although I’d rather you played with me), you can check out the Chocolate Toxicity Calculator that we have posted below. There’s also a really cool thing called an “application” (not like the one your people might have filled out to adopt you – this one is called “Om Nom: Can My Dog Eat it? OMG! My Dog Ate It”) that also has a built-in chocolate toxicity calculator. You can get more info about it here: http://omnomapp.com/chocolate-toxicity-calculator.

If you want to keep your sweet dog out of harm’s way, be sure to keep your chocolate stash out of our reach. And don’t be fooled if we bat our eyelashes to entice you to give us just a sliver of that delicious human treat that literally translates to mean “food of the gods.” As god-like as we pooches think we are, believe it or not, there really is such a thing as too much chocolate for us dogs.

If you want to treat us though – which we hope you do – feel free to feed us one of those carob-coated snacks that have specifically been made for us choco-craving canines. We promise that we’ll treasure it like it was the finest Godiva goodie ever made.

Other than making old Duke look presentable, just why you wonder, should you spend what precious little free time you have fussing over a few lumps of matted fur? In this case, what you see is not what you always get. You might be surprised at all of the “little things” that Duke needs attention paid to.

The Short-Term Benefits of Grooming your Dog

Do you ever take the time to thoroughly exam the inside of your dog’s ears of mouth? If you don’t, would you know the symptoms to watch for if your dog had an ear or tooth infection? Do you want to wait for such symptoms to become obvious or would you rather catch the problem before it reaches that point? Not many dog owners would choose the first option.

To stay abreast of your dog’s current health condition you need to do more than just observe his or her day-to-day behaviors. Spending a few minutes grooming your dog on a routine basis gives you the added bonus of really “getting in close” and making sure that everything looks, smells, feels, and even sounds right. Having a “heads up” on any illnesses or medical conditions potentially makes getting such things under control easier and less expensive, as well as have a greater chance of a successful outcome – all benefits in their own right.

Grooming your dog isn’t just a matter of finding hidden medical problems; it’s a way to maintain old Duke’s health. Think of it as spending your current time on preventative medical treatments in place of spending your money in the future for medical “repair” bills. That’s a short-term benefit with a long-term potential.

The Long-Term Benefits of Grooming your Dog

Grooming your dog presents the two of you with a unique bonding experience. Over time, old Duke might loosen up a bit more than he would otherwise. He might be calmer and more content in situations that use to cause him to react in a less-than-positive manner. That’s a potential long-term benefit for everyone who encounters your dog, whether it’s your veterinarian, postal delivery person, babysitter, or Aunt Bertha.

Being in close contact with your dog has long-term implications for you as well. According to numerous studies that have been conducted, pet owners experience “fewer minor health problems and better psychological well-being”; dogs in particular have been identified as “preventative and therapeutic measures against everyday stress” (www.deltasociety.org/dsc020.htm). A regular grooming session with your dog could therefore be considered a great form of preventative medicine for your own health.

If these sound like good reasons to you to get the flea-comb and slicker brush out along with your doggy nail trimmers and fingertip toothbrush, get to it and get grooming. Old Duke won’t just open up and say “Ah.” Both of you might also be saying “Ahhh….now that feels good!”